(03-07-2017, 03:28 PM)Thor Wrote: Corydoras type of bottom feeders like digging around. Yes, it is their nature. Correct me if I am wrong, most river and lakes have a layer of sand or gravel as the top substrate. So they are basically digging around in sand and gravel, not in dirt.
Well, that is a fairly diverse genus of catfish. Most rivers have either sand or rounded rocks and gravel, but they primarily live on the banks of those rivers, which usually has a more plant rich, "soil like" sub. Many of the lakes have a more dirt like bottom, depending on the lake. Also like many of the S American fish, some species inhabit "blackwater" type habitats, flooded plains in the summer, which are very slow moving, basically flooded jungles. All dirt and leaf litter. They are highly adaptable fish.
Quote:I guess you made sense on nitrogen was not fully used by the plants due to the lack of other nutrients. It is exactly the reason why not everyone is using CO2 injection and high intensity lights. Plants can definitely make use more of the nitrate if there is more CO2 and lights. Same case with other nutrients.
This is a complicated subject that
1. I fully understand, in theory.
2. Still escapes me in practice.
A while ago, you advised me to avoid the "high tech" approach. I agree. But, the "low tech" approach isn't exactly what I want either. At the time, I didn't understand what those concepts meant. What I want is a balanced system, between the plants and fish. Modified. The real key is, depending on plant stock and species, and fish stock and species, making sure all have what they need, balanced, so they can use up all of the waste of the other. E.g., even without a "high tech" approach, in your tank Thor, do you know what your phosphates (P) and potassium (K) are? If you are feeding any dried/pellet food, you probably have at least some P. But if you have plants, it'd be worth the $7 to get a P test. And if that is high too (not uncommon in a primarily fish tank) then what you need is K. That will usually not come from anything but your addition. It can not be produced from normal fish/invert/whatever waste. FWIW, you almost can't overdose potassium either. I'm not saying to just pour an entire 500ml bottle of Flourish Potassium in the tank, but with a bit of common sense, it's more than safe. The P (phosphorus) is the other variable, but if you give the plants what they need, they'll take it all down.
Quote:However as a fish keeper, I am just a little lazy on putting too much effort on the plants. If anyone who are willing to spend time and effort to calculate the exact amount of other nutrients they need to supplement the tank for the nitrate to disappear, feel free to do it. I will look up to them as professional aquatic "gardeners". To me, I use what is easier for myself. I will stick with weekly partial water change to keep my system clean and healthy.
FWIW, I am pretty sure I sped less time overall checking levels doing less water changes, lol. I was up to 40ppm NO3 a few days ago, bumped the K & P to the needed levels, and the nitrate wiped itself out to less than 10ppm. Plus, I now have a bright red lily pad bumping to the surface that wasn't there before....