I'm shopping around for a new/better UVB setup for my beardie and realized I have a few questions about this whole UVB light thing. Some of these may have been answered on one of the other threads I've posted in the past, but this post is also kind of intended as a place for beginners to come if they're clueless about this
Things I already know: reptiles need UVB to produce vitamin D3 in order to properly absorb calcium, which prevents MBD; UVB lights decay over time and eventually stop putting out UVB; full-spectrum bulbs do not necessarily provide the right amount of UVB light, if any, hence a straight UVB bulb is needed.
So. Talking about fluorescent bulbs, Zilla and Reptisun each sell fluorescent bulbs but they seem to rate their UVB outputs differently? Or maybe I just need to read the fine print. Zilla's bulb packaging will say things like "Desert 50" or "Tropical 25" and mention things like "UVA" and "full-spectrum" and "high-intensity." ZooMed's Reptisun lights, however, are rated as "10.0" and "5.0" and only mention UVB output and penetration.
HI AOD This can be complicated, mostly because the companies manufacturing the lights make it that way. When Zoo Med (ReptiSun) and Exo Terra (Used to be ReptiGlo, but they now make the same lights in new packaging since they have been found by most people to be inferior to the ReptiSuns), first came out with these lines they labeled them 10.0, 5.0, & 2.0, corresponding to 10%, 5%, & 2% UVB output, respectively.
Th Zilla line I have never figured out, and have heard generally bad things about, either in life of UVB output, flashes (brief overexposure of UVB), etc.
There are three basic types of Bulbs, fluorescent tubes, compact fluorescents, and mercury vapor bulbs.
Fluorescent tubes are just like they sound. They are usually placed the length of the enclosure, in a method some people have called "shading", meaning the entire enclosure gets mild UVB enclosure, as compared to one area getting concentrated exposure only. This is the method I prefer, and have seen the best results overall with.
Compact fluorescents, coiled fluorescents, etc, Are actually the same basic type of light, (fluorescent) but coiled and attached to a disposable ballast that can screw into an ordinary incandescent socket. These are problematic. First, the light is generally more intense, as there are 3 or 4 strips of fluorescent light in a row facing the same direction, and if you put it in a reflective dome, the results can be even worse. They can work, but you need to very careful with placement and distance. If there is too much UVB, the animal may avoid the area, or sit there and have other problems (i.e. blindness). And if they Have a flash of extra UVB...
The Mercury vapor bulbs are an incandescent spotlight/floodlight that also produces UVB. And they do seem to work in a more natural way. The real problems here are cost (the good ones are expensive) and fragility, they burn out easily. Any drip of moisture, sometimes even oils from your fingers,and they can go out... If you want one of these the Flukers Sun Spot and the Zoo Med Power Suns have had the best results, with the longest life.
Personally, I like the fluorescent tubes, the entire length of the cage. I use either ReptiSuns or the Arcadias. You want a high output, a reptisun 10.0 or the 12% Arcadias. Then I use a separate incandescent floodlight for heat. Here are a few links with info, as well as a good place to look for them.
Thanks, Fishbone! Now, without having visited any of those handy-dandy sites you listed, I read on a caresheet somewhere that some UVB lights are associated with lethargy and unwillingness to eat (in bearded dragons). Why might this be?
(08-11-2013, 11:28 AM)ArmyOfDreams Wrote: Thanks, Fishbone! Now, without having visited any of those handy-dandy sites you listed, I read on a caresheet somewhere that some UVB lights are associated with lethargy and unwillingness to eat (in bearded dragons). Why might this be?
That would be better phrased as "A lack of proper UVB is associated with lethargy and unwillingness to eat (in bearded dragons)." Without proper UVB many Diurnal lizards that bask daily (Agamids, Iguanids, etc) will display these problems. It is the first thing I check for any of these types of animals if any lethargy or lack of appetite is observed. UVB greatly affects behavior in these types of lizards.
Or maybe I just need to read the fine print. Zilla's bulb packaging will say things like "Desert 50" or "Tropical 25" and mention things like "UVA" and "full-spectrum" and "high-intensity." ZooMed's Reptisun lights, however, are rated as "10.0" and "5.0" and only mention UVB output and penetration. 
This can be complicated, mostly because the companies manufacturing the lights make it that way. When Zoo Med (ReptiSun) and Exo Terra (Used to be ReptiGlo, but they now make the same lights in new packaging since they have been found by most people to be inferior to the ReptiSuns), first came out with these lines they labeled them 10.0, 5.0, & 2.0, corresponding to 10%, 5%, & 2% UVB output, respectively. 