Your welcome
Glad to help. It can seem kind of daunting at first to get things going well. But after you have what you need and know the ins and outs it's pretty easy.
Well, let me first say, that the #1 upgrade to your tank is a UVB light. It really is essential. It could also play into the possible impaction. In addition to enabling the beardie to produce the D3 naturally, it seems to affect their energy levels, activities and encourage normal behavior. It varies lizard to lizard. Last thing on that, and I won't beat the subject any more. For 20 years, long before they became popular, until now, I have never met anyone with a 2 year old healthy bearded dragon, that didn't get UVB on them. Either in the way of a quality UVB bulb, or some way to get the dragon outside with access to direct sunlight, (glass filters out most of the UVB), safely with a place to retreat to if it gets too hot, and safe from predators and chemicals (fertilizers and pesticides, or any insects they may try to eat that have come into contact with these.) If not, it always ends up in the same place:
Metabolic Bone Disease, or MBD. So that really is the most important thing you can do. The d3 added to the calcium will do very little against this. There are allot of bulbs out there and I have used most of them. Some can be a bit dangerous if placed to close, not angled properly, etc. In a 40 gallon breeder I would recommend a 10% - 12% fluorescent tube. It is the safest and simplest way to go, and generally they last the longest, so you get the best "bang for the buck", so to speak. Let me know if you have any questions with this or any of the available types of bulbs, how to set them up, the cheapest places to get the good brands, etc... and I'll help you out.
That
Beautiful Dragons site is fabulous! The lady that runs it rescues neglected beardies, has done allot of work researching and collecting information from tons of reliable sources. If every pet had a site like that dedicated to them with that much information, the world would be a better place.
I wouldn't be so sure she actually is impacted, she really isn't eating that much for her size. So every other day wouldn't be that weird. Does she have any problems or seem to struggle to go? It is easier for them to defecate in water, and I do know people that who have dragons that are so used to it, they will wait for their owner to give them a bath
How long will she go without defecating if you don't bathe her? I would bump up the insects and keep an eye on her, maybe to just two insect feedings a day for now.
As for the window, I don't know how cold it actually is in your house, but I think you should be fine. 105 degrees doesn't feel as hot to the touch as you probably think it does. And a 100 watt bulb in a 40 breeder should do the trick not elevated. I'm in FL, and I use a 75 watt on my 75 gal's, with an elevated basking area, and it more than does the job. And as far as night temps go, if all else is well and the dragon is in good health, nighttime temps of 72 - 78 F are actually better for the dragon IMHO. They seem to do well with this, most of the larger breeders I know do this with all but hatchlings and babies (under 6").
A thermometer would also be a good investment. I prefer
infrared thermometers (tempguns), but they can get pricey. Sometimes you can find them for around $20 at pet shops too. But all you really need is a digital thermometer with a probe, like the indoor/outdoor types you can hang inside and place a probe outside. You can hang the probe in different parts of the tank, and place it right on the basking rock to know the exact temp of that spot. Check home depot, walmart, target, etc... You can normally find a fairly cheap version. But when you have the money, a tempgun is 1000 times more convenient. I have dozens of animals and I use 1 tempgun for everything. (I do have a backup though.)
I'll look forward to seeing some pics of your girl
